You can use any of the asian branded coolants out there, even the new Prestone with Cor-guard is now a P-OAT. Honda uses blue, Toyota uses pink, etc, etc virtually the same stuff with a different color. YMMV.There's nothing special about Subaru coolant, it's a P-OAT like all the asian manufacturer's use dyed to the color of their liking. Since I live in the South, having a slightly more water to coolant mix is an advantage (water cools better than coolant). As long as the specific gravity tester indicates the correct protection levels for temperature, I'm good and calling it a day. These Korean/Japanese engines seem pretty good at draining the block and heater core when doing a good drain/fill so I'm not hung up on getting the 'exact' concentration level (and I'm an engineer). I will then be measuring the coolant/water concentration level with a specific gravity meter (available for cheap at the auto parts store). I plan on doing several drain/fill with distilled water (~$1/jug) and after the final "rinse" cycle adding the 50:50 coolant mixture. "Color doesn't matter, only Chemistry does!"įWIW: I due for changing out my nearly 5 yr old OEM coolant (no issues to date and I'm also at 61K miles) and will be using the excellent Zerex Asian 50:50 coolant. This is really what you should be running in a Hyundai.įor today's modern engines and coolants, remember this phrase: HOAT with phosphates - typically Zerex Asian, Toyota Pink, etc. Not recommended, but doubt it would hurt anything. Typically Mercedes/Porsche/Audi/BMW - the Germans love silicates and hate phosphates, the Asians hate silicates and love phosphates. HOAT with silicates - typically gold Zerex G-05. In a Hyundai, it could cause issues, but I don't know of any specific cases. I used it some in my 2002 Focus, but it had a pressurized reservoir. Dex-Cool has 2-EHA which is supposed to gel when exposed to air to seal leaks. OAT - basically DexCool, GM Orange, according to the article, this is PG-based, Prestone All-Makes would fall in this category. This is what your dealer was using, and is PROBABLY okay. IAT - the old green stuff, okay for brass and I think it has phosphates in it.
I might get the terms wrong, but there are four main types of coolants: I can usually find the Peak Global 50:50 in supermarkets and pharmacy chains in case of an emergency. all have a good Asian and allmakesallmodels antifreeze selection. Napa, Walmart, Pepboys, Oreilly, Advance, and Autozone. The newer Asian coolants really never need flushing since they don't crud up or leave deposits. Repeat again if necessary and every few years. Just drain/refill the radiator, recovery/overflow bottle, with a 50:50 coolant. This is why I never recommend flushing for beginners or DIY'ers. The problem with a water flush is that you need concentrate in order to bring up all that water in the block back up to 50:50 ratio. Valvoline? MaxLife? Antifreeze/Coolant : Product Catalog - Valvoline®
#Toyota super long life coolant autozone full
Think that Subara LongLife(not super)is full strength and worth a check.Īnd, there is the much maligned Prestone that I've used 100's of times and never had a problem with, along with other all makes all models coolants: are 50:50's so they're a no go after a water flush. Toyota Red concentrate and Ford VC10a2 concentrate can also be used. My current fill is Recochem/OEM from Pepboys.Īnti-freeze, windshield wash, solvents, Global supplier of automotive liquids & household chemicals - Recochem Inc. but I think that A1 and A2 are concentrated full strength. you already flooded all the nooks/crannies with 'water'.same problem with the 50:50 Pentofrost A3 and A4. Zerex Asian is a great choice but only 50:50. Its not like the mud forming coolants of the 1970's. Peak Global is available in full strength and works great in Asian cars.
Personally, I agree with you and will probably change it at 60K miles and then every 60K - probably with A2. So - Antifreeze/Coolant O'Reilly GAL - Engine Coolant/Antifreeze | O'Reilly Auto Parts - which the dealer probably used or similar is probably correct per the OM. Pretty much anything other than Sierra is going to be EG based and most anything is fine for aluminum - the newer formulations aren't supposed to be used in brass. Mixture of antifreeze and water (Ethylene glycol base coolant for aluminum radiator)
#Toyota super long life coolant autozone manual
The manual is really vague on this, my 2016 Accent says the original is good for 10-years or 120K miles, and then replace it every 2-years or 30K miles: Thread above has alternates - of which, I would recommend Pentosin, OEM, or Zerex Asian Blue (red is fine, but doesn't match what Hyundai usually ships with).